Hike to Huchuy Qosqo – A Path Less Trodden

There are several different approaches to Huchuy Qosqo, either day hikes or multi-day treks. I went with several family members and we took a day hike, starting in the traditional Inca community of Tauca, not far from Laguna Piuray where I had been kayaking a few days earlier. Normally, I would go with a guide on an unknown hike in this area, but I had been assured that the path was very clearly marked, and I had a good map, so felt comfortable without it. We got a lift to Tauca arriving around 8 am, where a large sign marked the start point of the hike.

Hike to Huchuy Qosqo Path

After stocking up on a few final provisions, we started on the uphill trail on what we were told was an old Inca path. The path rose steadily from our start point at 3,850 metres, following a pretty valley, emerging into an open area surrounded on three sides by high peaks. There were small cochas (lakes) below us and a near-vertical cliff face in front of us. The path continued climbing through the beautiful scenery, finally arriving at a mountain pass at 4,420 metres, where the views opened up in front of us, with the snow-capped range of Ausangate, the highest peak in the region at 6,384 metres, visible in the distance.

We ate our packed lunch at this point, enjoying the silence and the pure (rather thin!) air, as well as the views, before starting on the steep descent towards the ruins of Huchuy Qosqo, with the vegetation becoming thicker. The going was definitely quicker on the way down, but as it was steep and slightly slippery, we took things quite gently, stopping frequently to enjoy the vistas and looking out for hawks in the clear skies.

Approaching Huchuy Qosqo, there were large boulders next to the path, with what appeared to be seats carved into them. Perhaps the Incas also needed a rest on the route, pausing to enjoy the incredible setting, and having a drink from the babbling streams.

Huchuy Qosqo Path

Rounding the corner and getting our first view of the Huchuy Qosqo site below us, and the mountains of the Sacred Valley rising on the other side of the valley, gave me the same feeling I had when first seeing the Wiñay Wayna ruins on the Short Inca Trail, and was another reminder that the Incas chose the settings for their important sites with as much of an appreciation for the natural beauty as we would have.

I had read that there was a control point and an entry fee to enter the site itself. Perhaps as it was a Sunday, there was no one there, so we were able to wander around the site on our own. Without a guide, I had little idea about the site itself, but was able to enjoy the plazas and structures, spending the best part of an hour exploring and sitting, taking in the connection with the mountains and with the past.

The path then descended very steeply down a gully, with care needed on the loose gravel, as it was easy to slip. The views as the valley opened up below us were beautiful, with the fertile fields and towns and villages in the shadow of the surrounding mountains. This part of the hike took longer than I had expected, with the valley appearing deceptively close, especially for the final half hour of the walk, and I was glad to arrive at the bridge in Lamay, with the Urubamba River flowing beneath us. From Lamay, it is easy to arrange a return journey to Cusco, around two hours away.

Hike to Huchuy Qosqo  

The 15km walk took around 7 hours in total, including plenty of stops for refreshments and to enjoy the scenery – it was less than 5 hours walking in total. However, the first part climbed steeply, and the descent was hard on the knees. It was probably equivalent to a day on the Inca Trail, with a similar distance covered, and lots of climbing and descending, and the highest point is actually higher than on the Inca Trail, which only reaches 4,200 metres. The scenery is just as spectacular, and the site of Huchuy Qosqo is lovely.

Hiking somewhere I had not been before reminded me of the sheer quantity of activities and attractions in the Cusco area. It really would be possible to spend over a month here and not get bored.

If you would like to walk to Huchuy Qosqo, then it is possible to arrange a guide and transport for this, or you can arrange to do this yourself, although please make sure you let someone know where you are going and you have a good map for the route. As there is nowhere to fill up water bottles, make sure you take plenty of water.

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